ASTM D 6193 : 2016 : R2020
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08-01-2020
1.1This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.2This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.3Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:
1.3.1Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,
FIG. 1Stitch Type 101
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 2Stitch Type 102
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A′. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A′ shall be interlooped with itself and with thread A.
FIG. 3Stitch Type 103
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread shall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.
FIG. 4Stitch Type 104
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 5Stitch Type 105
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at the center line.
FIG. 6Stitch Type 201
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A′, which shall be passed through the material in the same perforations from opposite directions without interlacing or interlooping.
FIG. 7Stitch Type 202
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material brought forward two stitch lengths, passed back through the material and brought back one stitch length before being passed through the material a third time.
FIG. 8Stitch Type 203
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material from the underside and immediately passed back through the same perforation to form a loop on the surface of the material. The needle shall be advanced one stitch length, passed through the material and the loop and immediately passed back through the loop and the same needle perforation, and a new loop shall be formed to receive the succeeding stitch.
FIG. 9Stitch Type 204
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall be passed through the material and brought back one stitch length and then passed back up through the material. The needle shall be moved diagonally across the material and forward one stitch length, passed through the material, brought back one stitch length and again passed to the surface of the material. This process shall be repeated to form a crisscross pattern of stitches on the surface and parallel rows of separated and off-set stitches on the underside of the material.
FIG. 10Stitch Type 205
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one or more needle threads and has for a general characteristic that the thread does not interloop with itself or any other thread or threads. The thread is passed completely through the material by means of a double pointed center eye needle and returned by another path. This class of stitch simulates hand stitching.
FIG. 11Stitch Type 301
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. A loop of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. Thread A shall be pulled back so that the interlacing shall be midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.
FIG. 12Stitch Type 302
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.
FIG. 13Stitch Type 303
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads, A and A′ and A″, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.
FIG. 14Stitch Type 304
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is exactly the same as stitch type 301 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 15Stitch Type 305
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B and the interlacing shall be left on the underside of the material. Successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 16Stitch Type 306
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the top ply of material and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top surface of the bottom ply of material.
FIG. 17Stitch Type 307
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: four needle threads, A, A′, A″, A′″, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, A′″, shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be on the underside of the material.
FIG. 18Stitch Type 308
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is the same as stitch type 304 except that successive pairs of stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 19Stitch Type 309
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. The interlacings shall be left on the underside of the material.
FIG. 20Stitch Type 310
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B, and the interlacings shall be left on the underside of the material. Successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 21Stitch Type 311
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced with thread B. Threads A and A′ shall be pulled back so that the interlacings shall be midway between surfaces of the material or materials being sewn.
FIG. 22Stitch Type 312
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is exactly the same as stitch type 311 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 23Stitch Type 313
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed horizontally through portions of both plies of material without penetrating the full depth, and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top of the material.
FIG. 24Stitch Type 314
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the top ply of material and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating the full depth and shall be interlaced with thread B on the top of the material.
FIG. 25Stitch Type 315
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one bobbin thread, B. This stitch type is the same as stitch type 304 except that successive groups of three stitches form a symmetrical zig-zag pattern.
FIG. 26Stitch Type 316
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one continuous needle thread, which after the first needle penetration is divided into two parts: part one, needle thread A, and one reel thread, A′. In subsequent penetrations thread A is passed through the material and interlaced with thread A. Thread A shall be pulled up so that the interlacing is midway between the surfaces of the material or materials being sewn. This stitch type is identical to stitch type 301 except for the initial stitch.
FIG. 27Stitch Type 401
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the bottom ply of material.
FIG. 28Stitch Type 402
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads A and A′ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the material.
FIG. 29Stitch Type 403
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads, A, A′ and A″ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the material.
FIG. 30Stitch Type 404
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the same as stitch type 401 except that successive single stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 31Stitch Type 405
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the same as stitch type 402 except that successive stitches form a symmetrical zigzag pattern.
FIG. 32Stitch Type 406
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and interlaced and interlooped with loops of thread B. The interloopings shall be drawn against the underside of the material.
FIG. 33Stitch Type 407
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: three needle threads A, A′, and A″ and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, and A″ shall be passed through the material and shall be drawn against the underside of the material.
FIG. 34Stitch Type 408
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: four needle threads A, A′, A″, and A′ ″; and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, A″ , and A′ ″ shall pass through the material where they shall be interlooped with the loops of thread B on the underside.
FIG. 35Stitch Type 409
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle threads A, and one looper thread, B. This stitch is the same as stitch type 404, except that successive groups of three stitches form a symmetrical chainstitch zig zag pattern.
FIG. 36Stitch Type 410
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads A, and A′, and two looper threads, B and B′. This stitch is the same as stitch type 409 , except two successive groups of three stitches form a symmetrical chainstitch zig zag pattern.
FIG. 37Stitch Type 411
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with six threads: five needle threads A, A′, A″, A′ ″; and A″ ″; one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, A′ ″; and A″ ″ shall pass through the material where they shall be interlooped with the loops of thread B on the underside.
FIG. 38Stitch Type 501
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through and around the edge of the material as a loop and interlooped with itself at the point of needle penetration of the stitch on the surface of the material.
FIG. 39Stitch Type 502
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlooped with thread B at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. Loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with thread A at the next stitch on the surface of the material.
FIG. 40Stitch Type 503
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two threads: one needle thread, A, and one looper thread, B. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and brought to the edge where they shall be interlooped with thread B. The loops of thread B shall be extended from this interlooping to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch and there interlooped with thread A.
FIG. 41Stitch Type 504
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: one needle thread, A; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and interlooped with loops of thread B at the point of penetration on the underside of the material. The loops of thread B shall be extended to the edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread C. Loops of thread C shall be extended from this interlooping to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch and there interlooped with thread A.
FIG. 42Stitch Type 505
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: one needle thread, A; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of thread A shall be passed through the material and extended to the edge where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B. The loops of thread B shall be brought up to the top edge of the material and there interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch and there interlooped with thread A.
FIG. 43Stitch Type 506
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and the loops of thread A shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of the loops of thread A′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be interlooped with loops of thread B at this point. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of threads A and A′, where they shall be entered by the next stitch of those threads.
FIG. 44Stitch Type 507
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material and the loops of thread A shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of the loops of thread A′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be interlooped with loops of thread B at this point. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of thread A′ at the next stitch where they shall be entered by loops of that thread.
FIG. 45Stitch Type 508
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with thread B. Loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with thread A′ at the next stitch on the surface of the material.
FIG. 46Stitch Type 509
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with loops of thread B. Loops of thread B shall be brought around and cast on the surface of the material where they shall be entered by loops of threads A and A′.
FIG. 47Stitch Type 510
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A′, which shall be passed through and around the edge to the surface of the material as loops and interlooped with thread A′ at the point of needle penetration.
FIG. 48Stitch Type 511
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material, brought around the edge and cast on the upper surface where they shall be entered by loops of themselves at the point of needle penetration of the next stitch.
FIG. 49Stitch Type 512
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with thread B. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of thread A′ at the next stitch where they shall be entered by loops of that thread.
FIG. 50Stitch Type 513
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the material as a loop and brought to the edge, where it shall be passed through a loop formed by the previous stitch and a loop which has been drawn across the upper surface of the material.
FIG. 51Stitch Type 514
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with lops of thread B. The loops of thread B shall be brought around the edge of the material and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the point of needle penetration of threads A and A′ at the next stitch where they shall be entered by loops of these threads.
FIG. 52Stitch Type 515
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch 401 a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 503 on the edge of the material.
FIG. 53Stitch Type 516
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 401 a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 504 on the edge of the material.
FIG. 54Stitch Type 517
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 301 a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 504 on the edge of the material.
FIG. 55Stitch Type 518
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 301 a specified distance from the edge, and one row of stitch type 503 on the edge of the material.
FIG. 56Stitch Type 519
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing one row of stitch type 401 a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 602 on the edge of the material.
FIG. 57Stitch Type 520
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed by simultaneously sewing two rows of stitch type 401 a specified distance apart and a specified distance from the edge of the material, and one row of stitch type 602 on the edge of the material.
FIG. 58Stitch Type 521
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads: two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material, brought around the edge of the material and interlaced there with thread B. The loops of thread B shall be extended from this interlacing to the points of needle penetration of threads A and A′ where they shall be entered by the next stitch of those threads.
FIG. 59Stitch Type 522
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A1; one looper thread, B and one looper thread C. Loops of thread A and A1 shall be interlooped at the lower point of penetration with thread B. The loops of thread A1 and B shall be brought around the edge and interlooped with loops of thread C. The loops of thread C shall be extended to the next stitch where they shall be entered by loops of that thread.
FIG. 60Stitch Type 601
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with three threads; two needle threads, A and A′, and one looper thread, B. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through the material where they shall be interlooped with thread B on the underside. Loops of thread A′ shall be extended across the material to the point of needle penetration of the next stitch of thread A where they shall be entered by a loop of that thread as it enters the fabric to make the next stitch.
FIG. 61Stitch Type 602
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with four threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through loops of thread C already cast across the top surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside.
FIG. 62Stitch Type 603
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: two needle threads, A and A′; one looper thread, B; and two cover threads, C and C′. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through loops of threads C and C′ already cast across the surface of the material and then through the material and interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside of the material.
FIG. 63Stitch Type 604
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with six threads: three needle threads, A, A′ and A″; one looper thread, B; and two cover threads, C and C′. Loops of threads A, A′ and A″ shall be passed through loops of threads C and C′ already cast across the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with thread B on the underside.
FIG. 64Stitch Type 605
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: three needle threads, A, A′, and A″; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, and A″ shall be passed through loops of thread C already cast on the top surface of the material and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside.
FIG. 65Stitch Type 606
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with nine threads: four needle threads, A, A′, and A″, and A′″; four looper threads, B, B′, B″, and B′″; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, and A′″ shall be passed through loops of thread C already cast on the top surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of the B threads on the underside as follows: A and A′ with B; A′ and A″ with B′ and B″; A″ and A′″ with B′″.
FIG. 66Stitch Type 607
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with six threads: four needle threads, A, A′, A″, and A′″; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, A″, and A′″ shall be passed through loops of thread C already cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside.
FIG. 67Stitch Type 608
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with five threads: two needle threads, A and A′; two looper threads, B and B ′; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A and A′ shall be passed through loops of thread C cast across the top surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B and B ′on the underside.
FIG. 68Stitch Type 609
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with seven threads: three needle threads, A, A′, and A″; three looper threads, B, B′, and B″; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, and A″ shall pass through loops of thread C cast on the top surface of the material and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of threads B, B′, and B″ on the underside.
FIG. 69Stitch Type 610
Note 1:This type of stitch shall be formed with seven threads: five needle threads, A, A′, A′ ″, and A″ ″; one looper thread, B; and one cover thread, C. Loops of threads A, A′, A′ ″, and A″ ″ shall be passed through loops of thread C cast on the surface of the material, and then through the material where they shall be interlooped with loops of thread B on the underside.
1.3.2Section 6—Classification of Seam Types for which drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, and
FIG. 70Seam Type SSa
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material and seaming them with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from their edges.
FIG. 71Seam Type SSb
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material, turning in the edge of one ply a specified distance to the inside and seaming the plies with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 72Seam Type SSc
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material, turning the edges of both plies a specified distance to the inside and seaming through the turned edges with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from the edges.
FIG. 73Seam Type SSd-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material, turning the edge of both plies a specified distance outwardly and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 74Seam Type SSe
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge, (seam type SSa-1), and
(b) turning both plies of material at the first seaming to cover the raw edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the folded edges.
FIG. 75Seam Type SSf-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, a specified distance from the edge (Seam Type SSa-1), and
(b) opening both plies of the material and seaming a reinforcing tape over the raw edges of the material with two rows of stitches a specified distance apart.
FIG. 76Seam Type SSh-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, a specified distance from the edge (Seam Type SSa-1), and
(b) opening the plies of material and sewing with a row of covering stitches over the trimmed edges.
FIG. 77Seam Type SSj-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material, inserting a plain narrow strip of material between and seaming with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from the near edge.
FIG. 78Seam Type SSk-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by inserting a folded strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 79Seam Type SSl-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing one ply of material on another a sufficient distance from the edge to permit turning the edge of one ply of the material under and in, a specified distance around the edge of the other ply, and seaming with one row of stitches.
FIG. 80Seam Type SSm-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches in such a manner that the thread passes only partially through the thickness of the last or outer ply. The thread shall not show on the outer side of the last ply unless otherwise specified.
FIG. 81Seam Type SSn-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material, folding both the edges back over the body of material a specified distance and seaming with one row of stitches.
FIG. 82Seam Type SSp-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two or more plies of material, turning the edges back over the body of material and in, under that fold a specified distance, and seaming with one row of stitches.
FIG. 83Seam Type SSq
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing three or more plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge (seam type SSa-1), and
(b) turning the two outer plies back over their edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 84Seam Type SSr-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material, turning the edge of one ply of material and seaming through the turned edge and plies of material with one row of stitches.
FIG. 85Seam Type SSs
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a tape, webbing or narrow piece of fabric over the turned edge of a ply or plies of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the turned edge.
FIG. 86Seam Type SSt
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a ply or plies of material with the outer edge turned, on a tape, webbing or narrow strip of fabric and seaming with two or more rows of stitches, with only the row nearest the folded edge going through the fold.
FIG. 87Seam Type SSu
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edges of two plies of material inwardly, inserting a tape or strip of material within the inturned upper ply, and stitching with two or more rows of stitches, with only the row nearest the folded edge going through the folds.
FIG. 88Seam Type SSv
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing and seaming two or more plies of material with one or more rows of stitches where evenly spaced lines of stitches are required in the body of the materials, as in quilting comforters, clothing linings, etc.
FIG. 89Seam Type SSw-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two pieces of material, turning the edge of one ply of material over the edge of the second ply, and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) turning back the body of the upper ply over the folded lower ply and seaming with one row of stitches.
FIG. 90Seam Type SSx
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming three plies of material as in seam type SSa-1 with a single row of stitches a specified distance from the edges, and
(b) turning back the edges of the middle and bottom plies and the body of the bottom ply over these turned edges, turning back the edge of the top ply and the body of the top ply and seaming through the body and the turned edge of the top ply, and the body of the bottom ply with one row of stitches.
FIG. 91Seam Type SSy-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming three plies of material in seam type SSa-1 with a single row of stitches a specified distance from the edge and
(b) turning back the edges of the middle and bottom plies and the body of the bottom ply over these turned edges, turning back the edge of the top ply and the body of the top ply and seaming through the body of the middle ply, the turned edges of the middle and bottom ply and the body of the bottom ply.
FIG. 92Seam Type SSz-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1 and
(b) opening the two plies and turning the edges of each ply back under the body of the ply and seaming through the turned edge of each ply with one row of stitches.
FIG. 93Seam Type SSa-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a strip on one ply of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 94Seam Type SSab-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a strip on two plies of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 95Seam Type ac-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning one ply aside and seaming its edge to a strip with its edges turned in,
(c) turning the other ply aside and seaming its edge to the strip, and
(d) opening both plies of material to finish as shown.
FIG. 96Seam Type ad-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) opening the two plies, turning the edge of each ply under the body, superimposing to a reinforcing strip and seaming through the body, turned edge, and reinforcement strip.
FIG. 97Seam Type SSae-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1 and
(b) turning both plies of material over their edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. When more than one row of stitches are used, one row shall pass through the folded edges.
FIG. 98Seam Type SSaf-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a welt strip on the body of a material which is superimposed on a stay piece and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) opening the seam by turning the welt strip over on itself and under the body material and stay piece, the edges of which shall have been turned, and seaming through the first seam and welt strip.
FIG. 99Seam Type SSag-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) opening each ply and superimposing these over a reinforcing strip whose edges are turned in a specified distance, and seaming with two rows of stitches through the reinforcing strip.
FIG. 100Seam Type SSan
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edge of one ply of material around a tape and superimposing this on another ply with edge turned up and stitching with three or more rows of stitches, two rows of which shall be through the turned edges.
FIG. 101Seam Type SSaj-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1,
(b) turning both plies of material over their edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches in seam type SSae-2, and
(c) turning the top ply back over the seam and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the second row of stitches.
FIG. 102Seam Type SSak-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a strip on the fold of a body material a specified distance from the folded edge and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 103Seam Type al-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on one ply of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches, and
(b) folding the edge of the body ply and the strip over the body material and seaming through the strip and body material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 104Seam Type am-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) opening the two plies and turning the edges of each ply back under the body of the ply; turning the body ply back under these turned edges and seaming through the first seam with one row of stitches.
FIG. 105Seam Type SSo-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) opening the two plies and turning the edges of each ply back under the body of the ply; turning the body of one ply over these turned edges and seaming through the body and turned edge of the top ply and the body of the bottom ply with one row of stitches.
Note 2:SSap is the same as SSao except (b) is further top-stitched through the body and turned edge of top ply with two row of stitches. Second row of stitches is to the right side of SSa-1 seam. No Seam Figure required.
FIG. 106Seam Type SSaq-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two or more plies of material, folding both the edges back over the body of material a specified distance and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) opening the plies of material, turning the seam to one side and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 107Seam Type SSar-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from their edges in seam type SSa-1,
(b) turning one ply aside and seaming its edge to a folded strip with its edges turned in,
(c) turning the other ply aside and seaming its edge to the folded edge of the strip, and
(d) opening both plies of material to finish as shown.
FIG. 108Seam Type SSas-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edges of a strip of material and seaming with two rows of stitches, and
(b) superimposing the stitched strip with the turned edges downward on a body material and seaming with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 109Seam Type SSat-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a strip with its edges turned under on a body material, and seaming the strip to the body material with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 110Seam Type SSau-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing a strip on a body material and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 111Seam Type SSav-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a folded strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, over a ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) superimposing another ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches.
FIG. 112Seam Type SSaw-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) inserting a folded strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 113Seam Type SSax-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) inserting a folded strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) turning both plies of material at the first seaming to cover the raw edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the folded edges.
FIG. 114Seam Type SSay-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the strip over the row of stitches, around the edge of the body material and seaming with a second row of stitches.
FIG. 115Seam Type SSaz-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a piece of body material with the face inside, placing the raw edges on a second ply, and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the raw edge, and
(b) turning the body material face out to envelop the second ply.
FIG. 116Seam Type SSba-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edges of each of two plies of material and stitching the turned portion to the body of the material with one row of stitches,
(b) superimposing the two plies and seaming a specified distance from the turned edges with one row of stitches, and
(c) opening the two plies and turning the edge of each ply under the body to finish as shown.
FIG. 117Seam Type SSbb-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning both plies of material over their edges, superimposing a strip and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 118Seam Type SSbc-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two pieces of material, turning the edge of one ply of material over the edge of the second ply, and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 119Seam Type SSbd-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material with their edges a specified distance apart and seaming with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from the edge of the top ply.
FIG. 120Seam Type SSbe-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material, or a strip on a body material, and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edges in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning one of the plies at the first seaming and folding the other ply a specified distance from the first seaming, and seaming with a row of stitches through all plies.
FIG. 121Seam Type SSbf-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, and stitching a specified distance from the edge with one row of stitches,
(b) inserting the folded and stitched strip of material between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(c) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 122Seam Type SSbg-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a strip of material, with or without a cord as specified, and stitching a specified distance from the edge with one row of stitches,
(b) inserting the folded and stitched strip of material between two superimposed plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(c) turning both plies of material at the seam to cover the raw edges and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the folded edges.
FIG. 123Seam Type SSbh-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) binding the edges of two plies of body material by turning one edge of a binding strip, folding it over the edge of the body material, and seaming the binding strip and body material with one row of stitches,
(b) superimposing the two plies and seaming a specified distance from the bound edges with one row of stitches, and
(c) opening the two plies and turning the bound edge of each ply under the body to finish as shown.
FIG. 124Seam Type LSa
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by overlapping two or more plies of material a specified distance and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 125Seam Type LSb
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding under the edge of one ply of the material overlapping it at the edge of another ply and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 126Seam Type LSc
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding in and interlapping the edges of two plies of material so that the edges of the material are concealed and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 127Seam Type LSd
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding under the edge of one ply of material, lapping it on the body of another ply of material a specified distance from the edge, and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 128Seam Type LSe
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges of each of two plies of material, inserting a third ply of material between the folded edges and seaming all plies with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 129Seam Type LSf
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding the edge of one ply of material, lapping it on two or more other plies and seaming with one or more rows of stitches. When more than one row of stitches are used, the inner ply shall be extended so that the second row of stitches does not go through the bottom ply, and
(b) the bottom ply then shall be turned back to lie under the top ply (figure b).
FIG. 130Seam Type LSg
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding in both edges of two plies of material, inserting a third ply of material between the folded edges on one side and seaming each side with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 131Seam Type LSj
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding both edges of two plies of material, inserting a strip in the fold of the top ply, inserting the body material between the folded edges of both plies on one side and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 132Seam Type LSk
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding both edges of a strip of material and lapping it on the body material whose edge has been folded in, and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 133Seam Type LSl
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edge of a body material, folding both edges of a strip of material, inserting one or more plies of material between the inturned edges of the body material and the strip, and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 134Seam Type LSm
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges of a ply of material over a strip, and lapping these two materials over a body material, whose edge has been folded in, and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 135Seam Type LSn-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by double folding the edge of a body material as for a hem (EFb) inserting a folded strip of material between the folded edge and the body of the body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 136Seam Type LSp
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by overlapping a strip of material over the abutted edges of two or more pieces of material and seaming with two or four rows of stitches.
FIG. 137Seam Type LSq
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming as in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) the top ply shall then be turned back sharply over the first row of stitching and seamed with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 138Seam Type LSr-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) overlapping two plies of material with their edges a specified distance apart and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge of the top ply, and
(b) turning the top ply over the first row of stitching, folding in the edge of the bottom ply and seaming with a second row of stitches through top ply and turned edge of bottom ply.
FIG. 139Seam Type LSs-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) overlapping two plies of material with their edges a specified distance apart and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge of the top ply, and
(b) turning the top ply at the first seam and seaming with a second row of stitches through the bodies of top and bottom plies.
FIG. 140Seam Type LST-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edge of one ply of material and lapping it over a second ply, folding a binding strip over the edge of both plies, and seaming with two rows of stitches, only one of which shall secure the binding strip.
FIG. 141Seam Type LSu-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edges of one ply of material and lapping it over a second ply, folding a binding strip with both edges folded in over the edge of both plies of material and seaming with two rows of stitches, only one of which shall secure the binding strip.
FIG. 142Seam Type LSv-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by double folding the edge of the body material, lapping it over a strip of material so that one edge of the strip is between the body material and its folded edge, folding the opposite edge of the strip, and seaming the strip to the body of the material with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 143Seam Type LSw-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by double folding each edge of a wide strip of material over a narrow strip, and lapping it over the folded edge of a body material and seaming with four rows of stitches.
FIG. 144Seam Type LSx
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material, folding a binding strip over the edges of the plies, and seaming the plies and binding strip with one row of stitches, and
(b) turning over the top ply a specified distance from the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 145Seam Type LSy
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material, folding the edges of a binding strip, placing it over the edges of the material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) turning the top ply a specified distance from the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 146Seam Type LSz
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by overlapping the edges of two or more plies of material, lapping a strip of material with the edges folded in over the overlapped edges and seaming with three or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 147Seam Type LSaa-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by overlapping the edges of two or more plies of material, superimposing a strip of material over the overlapping edges and seaming w rows of stitches.
FIG. 148Seam Type LSab
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges of a strip of material, lapping it on a second ply and lapping both of these over a third ply substantially different in width with its edges folded, and seaming with three or more rows of stitches as follows: One row shall join the strips on the outer edges; a second row of stitches shall join the top strip, the middle ply and the bottom ply through the turned edge, and the remaining row or rows shall join the top strip to the middle ply.
FIG. 149Seam Type LSac-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping a ply of body material over a narrow strip, one edge of which shall be folded in under the top ply, placing a binding strip over the other edges of the strip and body material and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 150Seam Type LSad-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping a ply of body material over a narrow strip, one edge of which is folded in under the body of the first ply, placing a binding strip with both edges folded in over the other edges of the strip and body material and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 151Seam Type LSae-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping one ply of material on to a second ply, folding the top ply back and seaming through the folded portion to the second ply with one or more rows of stitches. Note: the drawing illustrates the basic seam and two repeats.
FIG. 152Seam Type LSaf-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping one ply of material over a second ply, turning the edge of the first ply around the edge of the second ply and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 153Seam Type LSag-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping one ply of material over a second ply, folding one edge of each ply to the inside, and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 154Seam Type LSah-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping the folded edge of one ply of material over a second ply, inserting a strip between and seaming all plies with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 155Seam Type LSaj-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping the folded edge of one ply of material over a second ply, inserting a folded strip between the two plies, and seaming all plies with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 156Seam Type LSak-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches, seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the bottom ply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 157Seam Type LSa1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply of material into an “S” fold at a specified distance from the edge, folding in the edge and lapping it over a strip of material with the edges folded in and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 158Seam Type LSam
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply of material into an “S” fold, folding in the outer edge, inserting an interlining strip in the folds, and lapping these over another ply whose edges shall be folded in, and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 159Seam Type LSan
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply of material into an “S” fold, turning in and folding over the outer edge, inserting an interlining strip, and seaming with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 160Seam Type LSap-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply of material over on itself, lapping it on another folded ply, folding the edges of the bottom ply over the folded edge of the top ply and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through all plies of material at the folded in edges.
FIG. 161Seam Type LSaq-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding one ply of material over on itself, folding the edge in, lapping it on another folded ply whose edge shall be folded in between the body of the first ply and its folded edge, and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through all plies at the folded in edges.
FIG. 162LSar
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges of two strips of material, lapping one on the other, inserting two or more pieces of material between them at the folded edges, and seaming with two or more rows of stitches through the folded edges and inserted material.
FIG. 163Seam Type LSas-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges of two plies of material, lapping the folded edges over each other, and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 164Seam Type LSat-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping two plies of material with edges folded in, placing a strip of material on the top ply over each turned edge, and seaming with one row of stitches through each strip and all three plies of material.
FIG. 165Seam Type LSau
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding and interlapping the edges of two plies of material so that their edges are concealed, placing a strip of material on the top ply over the folded edges and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 166Seam Type LSav-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping two plies of material, folding in the edges of both plies, placing a strip on the top ply, and stitching with four rows of stitches, two rows through the strip and the remaining two through the folded edges of the material.
FIG. 167Seam Type LSaw-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping one ply of material over another a specified distance from the edge, folding the edge of the bottom ply and seaming with two rows of stitches, one through the edge of the top ply and body of the second ply and one through the folded edge of the bottom ply, and
(b) turning the top ply over at the row of stitches and seaming with one row of stitches through the body of the top ply and turned edge of the bottom ply.
FIG. 168Seam Type LSax-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the top ply at the first row of stitches, superimposing on a third ply with edges folded and seaming with three rows of stitches.
FIG. 169Seam Type LSay-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edges of a strip of material and lapping it on the body material whose edge has been folded in, inserting a strip between the folded edges of the body material and the strip, and seaming with four rows of stitches.
FIG. 170Seam Type LSaz-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) overlapping two plies of material and seaming with two rows of stitches in seam type LSa-2, and
(b) placing a strip or tape over the first seam and seaming with two rows of stitches beyond each of the overlapped edges of the material.
FIG. 171Seam Type LSba-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edge of a ply of material and lapping it on another ply, and seaming with two rows of stitches. Only one row of the stitches shall pass through the turned under edge.
FIG. 172Seam Type LSbb-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping to plies of material, folding both edges in and seaming with two rows of stitches as in seam type LSc-2, and
(b) placing a strip or tape over the first seam and seaming it to the body material with a row of stitches on each side of the seam.
FIG. 173Seam Type LSbc
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding in both edges of two plies of material, lapping one on the other, inserting a third ply of material between them and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 174Seam Type LSbd-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1; opening the two plies, and turning the edges of each ply back under the body of the ply; overlapping the seam onto two plies of material, the edge of one ply which has been turned up over the edge of the other ply, and seaming through all plies with one row of stitches on the side of the seam nearest the folded edge of the bottom ply.
FIG. 175Seam Type LSbe-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1; opening the two plies and turning the edges of each ply back under the body of the ply; overlapping the seam onto two plies of material, the edge of one ply which has been turned up over the other ply, and seaming through all plies with one row of stitches on the side of the seam furthest from the folded edge of the bottom ply.
FIG. 176Seam Type LSbf
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning both edges of a strip, folding it over the edge of a ply of material, the lower ply not extending as deep as the upper ply and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 177Seam Type LSbg-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of one ply of material in a reverse “S” fold, inserting a second ply in the fold nearer the edge, seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) turning the upper ply back to form the finished seam.
FIG. 178Seam Type LSbh
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning both edges of a strip and folding it over the ply or plies of body material. A tape shall be inserted between one folded edge of the binding strip and the body material and seamed with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 179Seam Type LSbj-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by lapping a ply of material on a body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 180Seam Type LSbk-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping a ply of material on a body material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 181Seam Type LSbl-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping a ply of material on a body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches, and
(b) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitching and seaming with a second row of stitches through the top and bottom plies.
FIG. 182Seam Type LSbm
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-2, with one row of seaming stitches and one row of overedge stitches, and
(b) turning the top ply back sharply over the seaming row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 183Seam Type LSbn-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on two plies of material and seaming with a single row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the bottom ply and the strip over the first row of stitches, turning in the edge of the strip and seaming the turned edge to the bottom ply with one row of stitches.
FIG. 184Seam Type LSbo-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of a ply of material and stitching the turned portion to the body of the material with one row of stitches, and
(b) folding the edge of another ply of material, lapping it on the first ply, and seaming with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 185Seam Type LSbp-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing three or more plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1,
(b) turning the top ply back over the row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches, and
(c) turning the bottom ply back to show the finished seam.
FIG. 186Seam Type LSbq-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of a ply of material and stitching the turned portion to the body of the material with one row of stitches,
(b) superimposing this ply on a second ply of material, folding under the edge of a third ply and lapping it over the turned and stitched edge and seaming with one row of stitches through the folded edge of the third ply and the two other plies of material, and
(c) turning the bottom ply back to lie under the top ply to show the finished seam.
FIG. 187Seam Type LSbr-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1,
(b) superimposing the seam thus formed on another ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches between the first row of stitches and the edge of the plies, and
(c) turning the bottom ply and the strip over the two rows of stitches, turning in the edge of the strip and seaming the turned edge to the bottom ply with one row of stitches.
FIG. 188Seam Type LSbs-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding under the edge of one ply of material, lapping it on the body of another ply of material, superimposing a tape along the folded edge of the first ply, and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 189Seam Type LSbt-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding under the edge of one ply of material, lapping it on the body of another ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) superimposing a tape along the folded edge of the first ply and seaming with one or more rows of stitches a specified distance from the edge.
FIG. 190Seam Type LSbu
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a body material and seaming a specified distance from the edge in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) folding the body material a specified distance from the edge of the strip and seaming the folded edge through the strip with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 191Seam Type LSbv-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a folded ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches,
(b) folding the edge of a body material and superimposing on the seam formed in (a) and seaming through the folded edge of the body material, and
(c) turning the body material over the seamed edges with the fold a specified distance from the edge of the extending strip and seaming a specified distance from the folded edge with one row of stitches.
FIG. 192Seam Type LSbw-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a binding strip on a reinforcing piece and two or more plies of body material and seaming with one row of stitches,
(b) turning the binding strip over the row of stitches and around the edges of the material, turning the bottom ply outward and stitching through all plies with one row of stitches, and
(c) seaming the opposite edge of the reinforcing strip to the body material with one row of stitches.
FIG. 193Seam Type LSbx-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of one ply of material and stitching the turned portion to the body material a specified distance from the edge as in stitching type EFa-1,
(b) superimposing the folded edge on another ply of material and seaming through all plies with a row of stitches a specified distance from the folded edge, and
(c) lapping the superimposed plies on one or more plies and seaming through all plies with a row of stitches a specified distance from the folded edge of top ply.
FIG. 194Seam Type LSby-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the top ply sharply back over the first row of stitches with the bottom ply folded a specified distance, and seaming with one or more rows of stitches through the folded portion of the bottom ply.
FIG. 195Seam Type LSbz-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding the edge of a body material a specified distance and seaming with one row of stitches,
(b) lapping a second ply of material over the folded and seamed ply and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(c) turning the second ply sharply at the second row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 196Seam Type LSca-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on the folded edge of a body material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the folded edge, and
(b) turning the strip back sharply over the first row of stitches and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 197Seam Type LScb-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing three plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) Turning the top ply back over the row of stitches and folding the two bottom plies a specified distance; superimposing this on one or more plies of body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 198Seam Type LScc-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning both plies of material over their edges, lapping the two plies over a body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 199Seam Type LScd-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two or more plies of material, folding both edges back over the body material a specified distance and seaming with one or more rows of stitches,
(b) lapping two plies of material even with the folded edges and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(c) turning the two plies back over the second row of stitches and seaming through all plies with one row of stitches.
FIG. 200Seam Type LSce-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding the edge of one ply of material and seaming with one row of stitches a specified distance from the edge, and
(b) lapping the ply on the body of another ply of material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 201Seam Type LScf-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, superimposing a third ply with edge folded and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 202Seam Type LScg-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, superimposing a third ply with edge folded and seaming to the top ply with one row of stitches through the folded edge.
FIG. 203Seam Type LSch-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, superimposing a third ply and seaming with one row of stitches through the third ply and top ply.
FIG. 204Seam Type LScj-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches and folding in the raw edge; superimposing a strip with one edge folded and seaming with two rows of stitches; one row through the folded edges and one row through the strip and the body material.
FIG. 205Seam Type LSck-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches and folding in the raw edge; superimposing a strip with one edge folded and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 206Seam Type LScl-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, folding in the raw edge; folding in both edges of another ply of material, lapping it on the turned and folded ply and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 207Seam Type LScm-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) placing two strips on either side of a body material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) turning the strips back over the sewn edges, folding in the raw edges of the strips and seaming each side with one row of stitches.
FIG. 208Seam Type LScn-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the bottom ply at the row of stitches, folding in the raw edges; folding in both edges of another ply of material, lapping it on the turned and folded ply and seaming with two or more rows of stitches, one row of which shall be through the body ply.
FIG. 209Seam Type LSco-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two strips and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1,
(b) seaming the edge of one of the strips to a body material, and
(c) turning the strips to cover the raw edges, folding in the raw edge of the top strip and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 210Seam Type LScp-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two strips and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1,
(b) seaming the edge of one of the strips to a body material, and
(c) turning the strips to cover the raw edges, folding in the raw edge of the top strip and seaming through the body material. The outer edge shall be seamed with one row of stitches.
FIG. 211Seam Type LScq-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two strips and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1,
(b) seaming the edge of one of the strips to a body material, and
(c) turning the strip to cover the raw edges and seaming with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 212Seam Type LScr-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two strips and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1,
(b) seaming the edge of one of the strips to a body material, and
(c) turning the strips to cover the raw edges, and seaming the unturned edge through the body material. The outer edge shall be seamed with one row of stitches.
FIG. 213Seam Type LScs-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) opening the plies of fabric, turning the seam allowance to one side with the raw edges turned under, and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 214Seam Type LSct-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning both plies over their edges, turning under the opposite edge of the strip and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 215Seam Type LScu-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) overlapping two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches a specified distance from the edges, and
(b) turning the top ply over the first row of stitching and seaming with a row of stitches through the body material.
FIG. 216Seam Type LScv-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing and seaming two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) opening the two plies, turning the edge of each ply under the body, superimposing on a third ply of material and seaming with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 217Seam Type LScv-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a piece of material and seaming a specified distance from the edge, and
(b) turning the material inside out with the seam opened and centered, and seaming to a body material with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 218Seam Type LScx-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding a piece of material and seaming a specified distance from the edge, and
(b) turning the material inside out with the mean to one side and seaming to a body material with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 219Seam Type LScy-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the top ply back sharply over the first row of stitches, superimposing a strip and seaming with two or more rows of stitches through all plies.
FIG. 220Seam Type LScz-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) folding under the edge of one ply of material; lapping it on two plies of body material and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) folding the edge of the first ply around the edges of the body plies; superimposing this on the edge of two additional plies of material, and seaming through all plies with one row of stitches.
FIG. 221Seam Type LSda-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edge of one ply of material in an “S” fold, superimposing it on another ply with the edges even; turning both edges of a strip and folding it over the plies of body materials, and seaming with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 222Seam Type LSdb-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a body material and seaming in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the strip around the edge of the body material; turning under the raw edge of the strip and seaming to the body material with one row of stitches.
FIG. 223Seam Type LSdc-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) turning the edge of a ply of material and stitching in stitching type EFa-1, and
(b) turning the edge of a second ply of material and lapping it on the turned and stitched edge of the first ply, and seaming with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 224Seam Type LSdd-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) lapping an interlining strip over a ply of material, turning the edge of the material around the strip and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(b) folding the material in an “S” fold over the opposite edge of the strip and the edge of the body material, and seaming with one row of stitches.
FIG. 225Seam Type BSa
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding a binding strip over the edge of the ply or plies of body material and seaming the binding strip and body material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 226Seam Type BSb
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning one edge of a binding strip, folding it over the edge of the ply or plies of body material, and seaming the binding strip and body material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 227Seam Type BSc
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning both edges of a binding strip, folding it over the edge of the ply or plies of body material, and seaming the binding strip and body material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 228Seam Type BSd-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding a binding strip over the edges of the plies of body material, seaming the binding strip and body material with one row of stitches, and the plies of body material with a second row of stitches a substantial distance from the edge.
FIG. 229Seam Type BSe-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning both edges of a binding strip and folding it over the edge of the plies of body material, seaming the binding strip and body material with one row of stitches and the two plies of body material with another row of stitches a substantial distance from the edge.
FIG. 230Seam Type BSf-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material and seaming with a second row of stitches.
FIG. 231Seam Type BSg-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material, folding the edge of the strip, and seaming with a second row of stitches.
FIG. 232Seam Type BSh-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming as in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) folding a binding strip over the edges of the plies of the body material and seaming with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 233Seam Type BSj-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the strip around the edge of the body material, folding the edge of the strip, and seaming with a second row of stitches through all plies.
FIG. 234Seam Type BSK-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning both edges of a binding strip, folding it over the edges of a ply or plies of body material and a folded welt strip, and seaming through the binding strip, welt, and body material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 235Seam Type Ba1-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the strip around the edge of the body material, folding the edge of the strip and seaming with three or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 236Seam Type BSm-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1,
(b) turning the strip at the row of stitching, folding the body material inward a specified distance, and seaming with one row of stitches, and
(c) turning the opposite edge of the strip under and seaming through the body material.
FIG. 237Seam Type BSn-4
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the strip around the edge of the body material with a tape or webbing inserted, folding the edge of the strip and seaming with three or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 238Seam Type BSo-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material a specified distance from the edge and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSbd-1, and
(b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material, folding the edge of strip, and seaming with a second row of stitches.
FIG. 239Seam Type BSp-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material and seaming with a second row of stitches through the turned edge of the strip.
FIG. 240Seam Type BSq-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning both edges of a binding strip and folding it over the edges of the plies of body material, and seaming the binding strip and body material with one row of stitches.
FIG. 241Seam Type BSr
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing a strip on a ply of body material and seaming with one row of stitches in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) turning the strip over the row of stitches around the edge of the body material and seaming with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 242Seam Type BSs-2
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by folding the edge of the body material in an “S” fold, turning both edges of a binding strip and folding it over the folded edge of the body material, and seaming the binding strip and body material with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 243Seam Type FSa-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by seaming the edges of two or more plies of material with a row of stitches extending across and covering the edges of the material.
FIG. 244Seam Type FSb-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning the edge of one ply of material, abutting it against the raw edge of a second ply of material and seaming with a row of stitches extending across and covering the turned edge of the first ply and the raw edge of the second ply.
FIG. 245Seam Type FSc-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by turning and abutting the turned edges of two plies of material and seaming with a row of stitches extending across and covering the turned edges of the material.
FIG. 246Seam Type FSd-3
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) seaming the edges of two plies of material in seam type FSa-1; and
(b) seaming a reinforcing tape over or under the seam with two rows of stitches a specified distance apart.
FIG. 247Seam Type FSe-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by abutting the edges of two pieces of material over a reinforcing strip and seaming with a row of stitches extending across and covering the edges of the material.
FIG. 248Seam Type FSf-1
Note 1:This type of seam shall be formed by:
(a) superimposing two plies of material and seaming with an overedge stitch in seam type SSa-1, and
(b) opening the two plies of material to form a flat seam with the edges of the material abutted.
FIG. 249Stitching Type Osa
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced with one or more straight rows of stitches.
FIG. 250Stitching Type OSb-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by inserting a cord between the material and the locking thread of the stitch thus forming a ridge or corded effect.
FIG. 251Stitch Type Osc-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by forming the material in a ridge to give a corded effect without inserting a cord.
FIG. 252Stitch Type Osd
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by inserting a cord or cords between two plies of material and stitching with a row of stitches on each side of the cord or cords.
FIG. 253Stitching Type Ose-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by folding the material in an “S” or reverse “S” fold as specified and stitching the fold to the body material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 254Stitching Type OSf-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by folding and stitching plies of the material near the fold with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 255Stitching Type OSg-3
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by:
(a) folding a piece of material and stitching a specified distance from the fold with one row of stitches,
(b) distributing an equal amount of the material in the fold to each side of the seam, turning each ply aside separately and stitching a specified distance from each folded edge with one row of stitches, and
(c) opening both plies of material to finish as shown.
FIG. 256Stitching Type OSh-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by folding the material in an “S” or reverse “S” fold as specified, inserting a cord in the fold, and stitching the fold to the body material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 257Stitching Type EFa
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edge of the material and stitching the turned portion to the body of the material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 258Stitching Type EFb
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edge of the material, folding it back over the body of the material, and stitching the turned and folded portion to the body of the material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 259Stitching Type Efc-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by folding the edge of the material in an “S” fold and stitching the turned portion to the body with one row of stitches. In sewing, the material shall be so guided that the needle only partially penetrates the folded edge. When the material is laid flat, the stitches shall not show on the outer face of the material.
FIG. 260Stitching Type EFd-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by placing a row of stitches over the edge of the material.
FIG. 261Stitching Type EFe-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edge of the material and placing a row of stitches over the edge of the material.
FIG. 262Stitching Type EFf-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning and folding the edge of the material, inserting a strip between the fold and the body of the material and stitching with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 263Stitching Type Efg-2
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning and folding the edge of the material, inserting a strip between the fold and the body of the material, and stitching with two rows of stitches. The strip shall be secured by one or more rows of stitches as specified.
FIG. 264Stitching Type Efh-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edges of a strip of material, bringing the edges together, and stitching the butted edges with a row of stitches extending across and covering the edges of the material.
FIG. 265Stitching Type EFj
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by folding a strip of material, overlapping the edges, turning the edge of the under ply, and stitching through all the plies with one row of stitches (stitching type EFj-1). One row of stitches shall be placed at each folded edge to form stitching type EFj-3.
FIG. 266Stitching Type EFK
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be formed by folding the material in an“ S” fold, turning the free edge back into the top of the “S” and stitching with one or more rows of stitches through each side of the fold.
FIG. 267Stitching Type Efl-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edge of the material and stitching it to the body material with one row of stitches. The stitches shall overedge the turned edge and the needle shall only partially penetrate the body material so that the stitches do not show on the outer face of the material.
FIG. 268Stitching Type Efm-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edge of the material, folding it back over the body material, and joining the turned and folded portion to the body material with one row of stitches. The needle shall only partially penetrate the body material so that the stitches do not show on the out face of the material.
FIG. 269Stitching Type Efn
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edges of two strips of material and joining the edges so turned by two or four rows of stitches.
FIG. 270Stitching Type Efp
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning a strip of material, folding the edges inwardly and joining with one or two rows of stitches.
FIG. 271Stitching Type Efq-2
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning and folding the edge of the material around a strip and stitching with two or four rows of stitches. The strip shall be secured by all the rows of stitches.
FIG. 272Stitching Type EFr-2
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning and folding the edge of the material around a strip and stitching the material with two rows of stitches. The strip shall not be caught in either of the rows of stitches.
FIG. 273Stitching Type EFs-2
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning both edges of a strip of material upward and then downward, abutting the folded edges, and stitching with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 274Stitching Type Eft
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edge of the material, folding it back over the body material and stitching with two or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 275Stitching Type Efu-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be formed by folding a piece of material with the face inside and stitching along the edge with one row of stitches. After stitching, the cylinder thus made is turned inside out to place the face of the material on the outside.
FIG. 276Stitching Type EFv
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be formed by folding the material, inserting an interlining strip, and stitching with two or four rows of stitches.
FIG. 277Stitching Type EFw-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edge back over the body material and in under that fold, and stitching the turned and folded portion to the body of the material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 278Stitching Type EFx-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edge back over the body material and in under that fold a specified distance, and stitching turned and folded portion to the body of the material with one or more rows of stitches.
FIG. 279Stitching Type EFy
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by folding a strip of material, overlapping the edges, and stitching through all plies with one row of stitches to form stitching type EFy-1. One row of stitches shall be placed at each folded edge to form stitching type EFy-3.
FIG. 280Stitching Type Efz
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning a strip of material, folding one edge inwardly and joining with one or two rows of stitches.
FIG. 281Stitching Type Efaa
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by folding a strip of material to form three plies and joining with one or two rows of stitches.
FIG. 282Stitching Type EFab
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning the edge of the material, folding it back over the body of the material, and placing one or more rows of stitches over the edge of the material.
FIG. 283Stitching Type EFac-2
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning both edges of a strip of material around a reinforcing strip, turning the edges inward, abutting the folded edges and stitching with two rows of stitches.
FIG. 284Stitching Type EFad-2
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning a strip of material, inserting a reinforcing strip, folding the edges of the material inwardly with one edge folded around the strip, and stitching with two or more rows of stitches. The strip shall be secured by all the rows of stitches.
FIG. 285Stitching Type EFae-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by turning both edges of a strip of material upward and then downward, abutting the folded edges, and stitching with a row of stitches extending across and covering the abutted edges of the material. The needle shall penetrate only partially the under ply so that the stitches do not show on the outer surface of the material.
FIG. 286Stitching Type EFaf-2
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by:
(a) placing a row of stitches over the edge of the material, and
(b) turning the overedged edge and placing one or more rows of stitches over the turned edge of the material.
FIG. 287Stitching Type EFag-2
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by:
(a) placing a row of stitches over the edge of the material, and
(b) turning and folding the overedged edge and placing one or more rows of stitches over the turned edge of the material.
FIG. 288Stitching Type EFah-1
Note 1:This type of stitching shall be produced by folding the edge of the material in an “S” fold with the raw edge turned under to form a finished edge, and stitching through the two folds with one row of stitches.
1.3.3Annex A1—Seam Assembly Recommendations.
1.4This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.5This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
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